Eighth-Century Graffiti — What Other Reason Do You Need to Visit Sigiriya?

As citizens of the “new world,” it can be hard to imagine a site that’s been part of civilized life for over 4,000 years. But that’s precisely what archeologists have proven Sigiriya Palace in Sri Lanka to be. Furthermore, it’s been a tourist site since the eighth century, judging by the graffiti left on its walls. Today, this UNESCO World Heritage site is probably the most visited destination in this fascinating South East Asian country. A trip to Sri Lanka would certainly be incomplete without it.

The History of Lion Palace

Sigiriya, which translates to “lion rock,” was a Buddhist monastery from the third century BCE until the usurper King Kasyapa (477–495 CE) moved the capital from Anuradhapura to Sigiriya. Fearing an attack by his brother, Maggallana, from whom he had stolen the crown, Kasyapa decided to build a fortress-palace on the rocky plateau, which rises 200 meters above the surrounding jungle to reach 370 meters above sea level. It is situated in the country’s center between the towns of Dambulla and Habarane and was built to resemble a giant lion. (The lion’s enormous paws still frame the main entrance on the northern side, but the rest of the body has been destroyed.)

Kasyapa was eventually killed in battle with his brother’s army, and the palace reverted to a monastery, which was subsequently abandoned in the 14th century. It was only in 1831 that a British army entourage rediscovered the site, and only in the 1980s that any serious archeological work began on it. Uncovered was evidence of advanced technology powering stone waterworks to maintain extravagant palace gardens and parks. The western wall of the palace was entirely covered by beautiful frescoes of naked women, similar to the Gupta style of painting in the Ajanta Caves in India. Eighteen of the frescoes remain relatively well preserved. It’s not known who the women depicted are, but they may represent Kasyapa’s concubines or religious priestesses.

A polished rock situated next to the Sigiriya maidens was a place for visitors to leave inscriptions and poems. This “mirror wall” would be polished until King Kasyapa could see his reflection. Nowadays, writing on the wall is strictly prohibited.

Visiting Sigiriya

Sigiriya is roughly a two-hour drive from Sri Lanka’s capital, Colombo, and a 40-minute trip from Dambulla. Plan to arrive as early as possible as you will have to climb 1,250 steps to reach the top of Sigiriya — not something you want to do in the heat of the day. That said, it’s a slow but steady climb that’s entirely doable for most. Plus, the views from the top make it all worthwhile.

Don’t forget to take water and sun protection as you will still be exposed to the elements once you’re on top. The site opens at 7 a.m. under normal conditions, but check for any COVID-related changes.

The entrance fee for international tourists is $30, which will get you entrance to the Sigiriya Museum. The museum is small but worth visiting for its impressive display of prehistoric artifacts and those from the fortress period. There are recreations of the frescoes and explanations of the hydraulics and engineering feats of the palace city. There is also a lot of information about the archaeological digging process that uncovered Sigiriya.

If you have time before the day heats up, it’s a good idea to visit the museum first, as the ruins will then make a lot more sense. Alternatively, you could hire one of the many guides waiting at the entrance. Under normal circumstances, Sigiriya can be very crowded, so visiting post-pandemic may give you a better-than-average experience.

Pidurangala Cave and Rock Temple

If you have time or if the crowds at Sigiriya put you off, it’s worth a visit to the Pidurangala Rock. It’s supposedly the site Kasyapa gave to the monks he displaced when building his fortress at Sigiriya.

Located 2.5 kilometers north of Sigiriya, Pidurangala Rock requires further climbing, but you will be rewarded with remains of the monks’ temple and a remarkable 12.5-meter recumbent Buddha statue made of bricks. Parts of the original statue were destroyed in the 1960s but have since been reconstructed.

The entire Sigiriya complex and the Pidurangala Rock temple are tributes to the talent of the Sri Lankans. It’s understandable why Sigiriya was chosen as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1982, and a relief to know this heritage of Sri Lanka will be preserved.